Air Compressor Less Oil Piston Ring - 1 2
| Job Boss 15 Amp 3.5 Horsepower 4-1/2 Gallon Oil-Free Wheeled Single Hot Dog Compr | Porter-Cable C3151 | |
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by Porter Cable  85 pounds; 1-year warranty Includes compressor, mobility kit, and manual Cast-iron construction 2-port removable console for remote air regulation; full roll cage to protect kit; 150 max psi 15 amp, 3-1/2-horsepower, 4-1/2-gallon oil-free wheeled single hot dog compressor with handlefound in C3151's description: com Porter-Cable’s solved the compressor mobility problem on two levels with this tool. First, and most impressively, it’s got a two-port removable console for remote air regulation and higher air pressure right where you’re working. And the compressor itself has wheels and an extension handle, making life easier on you. Let’s face it: This compressor’s big, heavy and loud, with a max psi of 150. You can run three or four guns at once off it with a splitter and have no air supply problems whatsoever. And last but not least, it’s oil-free and therefore maintenance-free.5 gallon, oil-free contractor style compressor is packed with features. It starts with the oil-free pump which is designed for durability and long use. The high-flow air regulator and two-port removable console are winning combinations for contractors. Having the ability to remove the console gives the user the opportunity to remote air regulation and gain higher air pressure closer to the job site. Air delivery at 40 PSI: 7. What's in the Box |
| 3HP/ 4 Gallon Oiled Twin Hot Dog Compressor | Stanley Bostitch CWC200ST | |
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by Bostitch 5.1CFM @40 and 4.0CFM @90 Synthetic pump oil for low temp operation Dual air outlets Cast iron pump cylinder for extreme durability 3 peak HP 15 amp induction motorfound in CWC200ST's description: From the Manufacturer 3HP Oil Lube Stack Tank Compressor. Product Description Portable, electric powered compressor with 3 HP, high output, heavy-duty induction motor. Oil lube design. found in CWC200ST's reviews: Compressor head is OK but the extra parts are of low quality - I bought one of these compressors a couple of months ago after doing carefull research and actually going to a repair facility here in AZ that handles warranty repairs for a variety of brands. Comparing quality versus price the Bostitch CW200ST was a winner. So I bought one to use with a Bostitch nail gun and stapler while restoring my parents house. I estimate that the compressor has about 15 (fifteen) hours of use by now. The oil pump reaches pressure rather quickly but the pressure regulator cuts the power at 120 PSI rather than 125 PSI as prescribed. You will have to tilt the compressor down and rock it side to side to get the water out, furthermore when tilted the lower drain hits the floor impedig drainage so you actually have to lift this rather heavy machine and tilt it and rockit at the same time in order to drain. Shortly after purchasing the unit one of the Quick Disconnects on the compressor will not seal itself after the hose is taken off and will merily leak all the air out in about one minute, I had to replace that so I could use the machine. For about the last five hours of use I started to notice that if left pressurized overnight the air was gone in the morning upon closer inspection I could hear a faint hiss comming from somewhere behind the regulator It was not much just enough to leak and turn the machine on about every 15 minutes even if I did not use air. Yesterday the manual regulator prooved to be the culprit as when I started the compressor for the first time it would not hold air at all. I put my head next to it to listen for the noise of air escaping and sure enough there was a faint hisssss. While I was trying to figure out where the noise is caming from The back of the manual regulator popped loose again suddenly letting all the air escape in an instant startling me and prompting my wife to ask from the kitchen some ways away: "did you do that on purpose?" Well NO. Unfortunately I have to get the exact size and probably same model since it mounts on the front panel with a plastic threaded ring and space is rather limited and, it neds to have the same ports and orintation so it can take the various hoses and ports connecting to it. Overall the tech was right the actuall compressor is well done I believe he said it was Italian made the rest is rather sloppy and not thought out well. |
| - Ingersoll Rand Electric Stationary Air Compressor - 3 HP, 10.3 CFM @ 135 PSI, 230 Volt, Model# SS3 | |
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by Ingersoll Rand Tank Size: 60 gallon vertical Max PSI: 135 PSI PSI: 11.3 CFM @ 90 PSI; 10.3 CFM @ 135 PSI Volts: 230 Volts Motor: 3 HP with thermal overload and manual reset - single phase motorfound in SS3L3's description: Product Description Maximum air power! More delivered air (CFM) gives you the power to do the job right and in less time. found in SS3L3's reviews: A cheap way to get more CFM... but its still cheap. - This air compressor is identical to my Ingersoll Rand SS3L3 compressor that I purchased through Northern Tool in the early summer of 2005. This is the first air compressor that I have ever owned, so it was a learning experience from the start. It is recommended that you purchase the IR SS3L3 startup kit as the compressor is delivered to you without any oil in it. In some cases the warranty is not valid unless you have purchased the startup kit. When I plugged in the compressor to test it out, I found that the motor continued to run even as the gauge on the tank passed 130 psi. I ran the compressor off and on for several months without any major issues. a little bit of die grinding, I rotated the tires on my car using the impact wrench and air ratchet, I used it to blow dust off my work bench and check the air in my tires on a routine basis. I bought the compressor because I have several project cars, and I would like to begin the serious work of restoring them. Recently, I have been looking at plans for a sandblasting cabinet, and I am starting to doubt that this compressor will stand up to the task of sand blasting for extended periods. Things I have learned about the compressor since its purchase that have led me to this conclusion: 1. This unit uses a 3 HP "split phase" motor, which can be run on a standard 30A 230V household outlet - it draws about 15A during continuous duty. (I swap between my compressor and my dryer on the only 230V outlet in my house). At startup the motor may approach its 3 peak horsepower, but during normal operation it may only be outputting half that power, so in truth it is essentially a 1. This borderline false advertising is similar to peak and RMS power ratings in audio amplifiers, though it is fairly standard operating procedure to rate motors in this fashion. Though it is quieter than a direct drive unit like the 30 gallon compressors sold at most hardware stores, 3450 RPM is still quite fast. With the pulley ratios, the compressor crank spins at 1200 RPM. Heavier duty systems might have the AC motor running at 1200-1750 RPM with the compressor running at ~700 RPM or less, resulting in a much quieter setup. There is apparently no available rebuild kit for the compressor itself, according to the local IR dealer, though they do sell gaskets and the oiling kit. It is a two cylinder, single stage compressor. The "valves" in the head are what I believe are called "reed valves", which are simply spring loaded "fingers" that cover holes in the cylinder head, and they move with the blowing/sucking of air as the pistons move in the cylinders (no mechanical actuation of the valves). The pistons are aluminum, and though I measured, I don't remember the diameter. The rods are also aluminum, and there are no rod bearings. The crankshaft is cast iron machined at the journals, and the aluminum rods rotate on the crank without any rod bearings. The crankcase does not have a removeable oil pan, and the cylinder block bolts to the crankcase. I was somewhat disappointed to discover the absence of rod bearings and the use of aluminum rods. The compressor can run fairly hot, especially when pressurizing the tank from zero pressure. I would like to add an intercooler in line to the tank as the compressed air is quite hot, and I think the compressor itself could use some more cooling. I bought some copper to fab up a larger heat sink for the compressor housing, though I haven't made it yet. The flywheel on the compressor is designed to move air over the unit, but I still think the design needs improvement. On any given day I release about 1/4 cup of oily, rusty, watery residue. This makes me want to install a condensor between the compressor and tank). Copper tubing is used to route compressed air from the compressor to the tank, and I think some improvements could be made there, as well. The oil reservoir drain plug is on the bottom of the crank case, however this is no practical way to drain the oil without spilling it all over the top of the tank. One could remove the compressor to change the oil, but a better soultion would be to insert a ball valve in the oil drain plug for easy draining. I have not yet done this, as I'm procrastinating over the necessary oil spill that will come with project. I suspect that the threading on the oil plug is standard NPT like all of the other fittings on the tank - possible 1/4" or 3/8". IR sells the SS5L5, which uses the same 60 gallon tank, but a 5 HP split phase 3450 RPM motor running a different two piston single stage compressor. For someone considering more power, this unit is still quite affordable, but it will still have some of the drawbacks of this system. My biggest complaints are the use of the split phase motor, the relatively cheap design of the compressor (aluminum rods and lack of rod bearings), the flimsy pressure switch, and the cheap fittings used all over the machine. I will continue to use this unit for some time, but I am already considering either building my own low RPM, true 4-5 HP air compressor from various parts suppliers, or just purchasing a new one from a company like Eaton Compressor. However, if you are considering something for medium-heavy duty, you might want to consider something with a little more quality, and therefore more cost. Like houses, I think good advice for someone looking to buy an air compressor is "buy the most you can afford". I for one like the idea of a compressor running at a quiet 750 RPM at a mere 73 dBa, as opposed to my high revving 1200 RPM SS3L3. Meanwhile, my criticisms of this unit are based on what I'd like to see in a compressor, that is all. With authorized IR dealers all over the country, getting parts (like gaskets, pressure switches, and oiling kits) is pretty painless. |
| 2 HP 14.1 Amp Electric Master Series Compressor | Emglo M800-HC4V | |
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by Emglo One-year warranty Features 1/4 NPT soft seat drain valve Rugged cast-iron cylinder provides maximum durability Integrated high-profile panel houses regulator gauges and universal quick couplers Powerful 2-horsepower electric motor delivers 3.8 cfm at 125 psifound in M800-HC4V's reviews: Handy little machine! - Because the fittings use air pressure to seal themselves, you can pull the line right out of the fitting when there is no pressure in the tanks. It just slips out of the O-ring in the fitting. |
Air Compressor Less Oil Piston Ring - 1 2